Magazine and Press Reviews

EatScotland's independent assessor said:

“Upon entering Deans you are immediately made welcome and invited to sit in the comfortable lounge area. The staff are friendly, attentive and professional.”

Seared Scallops with Stornoway Black Pudding, Apple Salad and Spiced Cider Vinaigrette
“Great visual impact with the seared scallops resting on the black pudding, accompanied by a combination of dainty leaves and flower heads. The flavour, texture, colour, aroma and appearance of the scallops and black pudding indicated that they were of very good quality.”

Peppered Breast of Magret Duckling, Creamed Celery, Potato and Apricot Pave
“The duck breast was innovatively carved and all ingredients arranged artistically and temptingly. The duck was tender and succulent and of very good flavour. The pickled cherries added an interesting piquant dimension to the flavour combinations. The jus was flavoursome, full bodied, glossy and of a fine consistency.”

Trio of little Chocolate Desserts and Ices
“The dessert consisted of mini portions of a warm chocolate tart, ball of chocolate ice cream and filled panacotta, pooled with chocolate sauce. The various textures and consistency were delightful. The pastry was thin and crisp, the chocolate mixture warm and soft and complemented by a small chocolate nut biscuit. The panacotta was also of a good soft but shapely consistency.”

The recently refurbished Deans at Lets Eat Restaurant has now made its mark as one of Perth's favourite restaurants. Willie Deans describes his cooking as vibrant modern Scottish. The focus is firmly on flavour and seasonability, most of his ingredients are sourced locally and quality is not compromised. All aspects of the dish are freshly made on site.

The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed with a discreet professional service.

Following a major refurbishment in early 2007, marking another step in the transition from the days of Let's Eat on this site, Deans Restaurant oozes comfort and class.

Linen-covered tables, an open fire and huge sofas - from where you study the menu over a bowl of olives and warm roasted nuts - give the feel of a country house hotel, while feature lighting and bold, framed photographs of the food lend it a contemporary edge. Like the décor, the head chef Willie Deans' menu combines the classic and the contemporary, influenced by the seasons and not shy with flavours.

'Simply' smoked salmon and rib eye steak with chunky chips cater to good British tastes while, for the more adventurous, there's smoked duck and peppered chicken liver salad with a soya and ginger dressing, or fillet of sea bass and langoustine on fennel and vine tomatoes, with an apple balsamic dressing. There's a market special every day, which, if the dish proves popular, is adopted on the ever-evolving menu.

The wine list, which has been recently upgraded, is causing a murmur of appreciation among diners for both range and price, and, with its modern approach to food and relaxed ambience, the restaurant is drawing a new generation of diners from both Perth and further afield.

Happy returns
It was with some trepidation that I revisited Let’s Eat in Perth – I have eaten there on many occasions when it was run by Tony Heath and Shona Drysdale and never had a bad meal.

It has been one of a select number of establishments in Scotland I felt I could recommend enthusiastically to people. While the news that it had been taken over by Willie Deans, lately of the Buttery in Glasgow, sounded promising, you never know.

From outside there is little to announce any change, except Deans’ name is now on the windows. Stepping over the threshold, everything was still reassuringly familiar – the capacious settees in the corner around a wood-burning fire, the same decor. Even, it seemed, the same friendly, affable staff. There is something about the dimensions of this restaurant space that gives it an easy, convivial atmosphere, a sense of comfort without stuffiness.

And the food? I’m glad to report that a sensible strategy underlies the menu: seasonal local ingredients respectfully and classically cooked so they come together in one pleasing whole.

There are little flourishes of originality, but all conceived within the framework of prevailing good judgement. For instance, a really excellent combination of sweet prawns and fresh white crab meat bound in a delicate coconut and coriander mayonnaise was served between wafers of celeriac fried to a crisp, so adding texture contrast to thrill the palate and making for a pretty presentation. This was flanked by a vibrant but not bossy citrus dressing that cut the richness of the crustaceans and the slight oiliness of the celeriac.

Another starter featured breast of plump little pigeon, pink, tender and succulent in a first-rate red-wine juice. The bird was slightly let down by its fried herb gnocchi, which tasted somewhat undercooked and floury.

Otherwise, the main courses were absolutely sound, made up of many elements, all complimenting one other. A huge fillet of well-aged Blairgowrie beef sat on a rich, sticky slice of pot-roast silverside in its attendant gravy, along with a tangle of fondant onions, a purée of winter root vegetables, creamed savoy cabbage, roasted carrots, celeriac and shallots. To add to this there was a little jug of creamy truffle sauce.

A melting lamb shank in unctuous gravy had been freshened up by being pressed in finely chopped mint and went exceptionally well with truffle-oil scented mash and a crusty, salty rosti potato. Deliciously creamy and flavoursome stewed haricot beans added another interesting, harmonious dimension. The kitchen’s timing was perfect throughout.

Of the desserts, I’d love the recipe for the sour-cream chocolate tart, which managed to be bitter and dark while the sharpness of the cream kept at bay any potential cloying richness. Served with a powerful, zingy purée of candied kumquats and a refreshing orange water ice, this was a sophisticated but satisfyingly chocolatey offering.

Willie Deans has wasted no time in marking his card in Perth – assessment and incoming reports indicate that he has raised standards even higher. His distinguished career is well documentated and he and his wife Margo now operate this very successful restaurant in Perth.

The foundation of this success has been a lot of hard work, not only in the kitchen, but the smooth operation at front of house. Great combinations here, whether fish, game, beef, or a rib eye from the grill. Ochil poultry (free range) or saddle of lamb a firm favourite. Even the chef’s home made soup from the board menu always with just that something different. Quality ancillaries (bread, garnishes etc). Flair and imagination evident throughout the complete meal – culinary skills successfully executed and diners expectations fully met. One of the best areas (Fife not far away is another) to source quality fresh ingredients – even pick your own chanterelles & ceps! Highly recommended.